The Secret to Diving with Blue Whales in Sri Lanka

https://www.lamaiscubadiving.com/secret-diving-blue-whales-isri-lanka/

Safety Procedures and Best Practices for Ghost Net Removal

https://www.lamaiscubadiving.com/ghost-net-removal/

Scuba Gear Buyer’s Guide

 Around Koh Samui, Dive Equipment, Diving Equipment, Media, Scuba Diving Equipment Dive masks, Diving Equipment, scuba diving masks, Scuba equipment

Having the best diving gear will always enhance your experience underwater. Your mask is arguably the most important element to consider when gathering your equipment. You’re going to want to put a lot of thought into choosing the right mask, regardless of whether you prefer snorkeling or scuba diving.

Many beginners find this out the hard way. When you’re starting out, it’s a good idea to rent equipment first. This allows you to get a feel for the sport before investing a lot of money into it. The downfall to renting equipment is that they’re not often of the best quality. You end up with a leaky mask more often than not, which results in a disrupted dive.

No matter how tough you think you are, having salt water seep into your eyes is uncomfortable. That’s why we built this list, after all—to help you decide on the best scuba gear to match your price range. Whether you’re starting out or looking to replace your old mask, the nine we’ve listed are the best money can buy. And that’s not just our opinion—it’s the general consensus of the community!

Something to keep in mind though: it doesn’t matter if you have the best gear if you don’t know how to use it properly. We’ve set out to help you select your equipment, and we’ll give you some general guidelines too. But it’s up to you to invest time in reading up on how to use your specific model properly.

You may also want to consider buying additional straps as a backup. Try to get a different style to the one your mask comes with, in case you decide you need it. Some scuba masks come with a protective box already, but if yours doesn’t you should definitely get one. The box will keep your mask safe from scratches when you’re not using it.

What Are the Different Types of Masks?

If you are starting out, then it’s also helpful to understand the different types of masks available on the market. There are several, and they typically differ the most in terms of design and features.

We’ve listed both framed and frameless masks above (as well as the hybrid Atomic Aquatics Venom mask), but what are the advantages of either?

Frameless

As the name suggests, a frameless mask doesn’t have a thick frame. This allows the lenses to be placed closer to your eyes, which can greatly enhance visibility. The only downfall in this is that they do tend to fog easier, unfortunately. But if you’re looking for a lightweight, low-profile mask, then frameless is certainly the way to go.

Due to the lack of a frame, the silicone rubber skirt is attached directly to the lenses. This also makes it easier to fold them up, whether for storage or as a backup. Some of the masks we listed are able to fit right in your BC pocket!

Framed

Framed masks, on the other hand, are far more rigid, and the lenses are further from your eyes. While this little bit of distance can impair visibility slightly, it also makes the lenses less likely to fog up. Many experienced divers say that a framed mask will fit your face with better stability and security than frameless designs. If you find yourself struggling to find a mask that fits your face well, experts suggest narrowing your search down to framed designs only.

Hybrid

And then, of course, there’s the hybrid SubFrame/Frameless design offered by the Atomic Aquatics Venom mask. As discussed earlier, this innovative model gives you the best of both. You’ll benefit from the low-profile and low-volume advantage of a frameless mask, without losing the stable, secure fit of the framed.

Single Pane vs Double Pane vs Quad Pane

Another way in which masks are distinguished is by the number of lens panes they have.
Single lens masks have one pane without any separation (or, as is the case with the Venom, a deep bridge that cuts into the pane without separating it totally). This can have the advantage of an increased field of vision, but this is largely decided by the angle of the lens. One thing you should be aware of is that because there is more glass present, single pane masks tend to be heavier than their double pane alternatives.

Double pane lenses are almost like wearing a pair of glasses. Two separate panes are divided where your nose is. Most designs use this advantageously, utilizing reverse teardrop shapes set at an angle for a wider field of vision. A badly designed double pane mask might give you a ghost blind spot in the middle, where your nose forms a semi-transparent barrier in your field of vision where your eyes cross slightly. So, if you do opt for a double pane design, make sure it’s one of the best! One major advantage a well-designed double pane scuba mask typically has over the single lens is its decreased volume.

The third option is a quad pane design. This is similar to the Phantom Aquatics Panoramic Scuba mask, except that instead of a single lens with two side panes you have four windows. In basic terms, it’s a double pane design with two side panes. This allows you to look ahead, left, and right without having to turn your head. As is the case with the Phantom Aquatics mask in our list, this affords you a much wider panoramic field of vision.

Nose Well vs Purge Valve

The third way to distinguish masks is whether they have a purge valve or not. Many mask designs have a simple silicone rubber nose well, which—depending on the lens setting—often allows you to equalize your ear pressure. You can still do so with a purge valve design, of course. The main difference is your exhalation point. Without a purge valve, you’ll have to expel air through your mouth.

A purge valve, on the other hand, is a feature placed at the bottom of the nose well. This allows you to exhale through your nose, without breaking the seal.

Whether you opt for a model with or without the purge valve is largely up to personal preference and level of expertise.

Full-Face Snorkel Masks

A new mask design has emerged recently that engulfs the entire face. A dry snorkel is fixed at the top. This is known simply as the full-face snorkel mask. While popular with some snorkel divers, it isn’t a viable option for anyone wanting to do scuba diving. As a result, they do not feature on our list, but they’re worth a mention regardless.

Choosing the Right Mask

The full-face snorkel mask notwithstanding, there’s no fundamental difference between the snorkel and scuba mask. When deciding on a model, what you want to focus on rather is quality and durability.

With snorkeling, you’re not very likely to dive too far below the surface. The mask is not going to experience any real pressure as a result. This means that technically speaking, you can get away with less durable masks. Of course, you should always opt for the most durable model nevertheless. But our focus is on scuba diving, and therefore on scuba masks.

With scuba diving, there are added risks involved that don’t come into play with snorkeling. One of these is the amount of pressure your mask will be subjected to. A tough frame will go a long way in protecting your face should your mask sustain any damage, and will handle the increased pressure a lot better than a snorkel mask. This isn’t to say that frameless masks aren’t as suitable, of course.

One necessity that certainly isn’t up for debate is the glass used for the lenses. If it isn’t tempered, don’t even consider making a purchase! Tempered glass will handle deep water pressure well. Even if you do suffer damage to your mask, the tempered glass will withstand a lot better than cheaper variants.

There are a few common rules that you should follow no matter the type of mask you buy. Regardless of whether you opt for a scuba or snorkel mask, the most important factor is how well it fits your face.

A mask that fits poorly isn’t going to have a decent seal. You can expect to have water seeping in. As we mentioned earlier, a leaky mask is very disruptive to your dive. You’ll be returning to the surface to drain your mask, and have to contend with the discomfort of having salt water in your eyes. Simply put, if you have a leaky mask you may as well not be wearing one at all!

This is why it’s so important to have a well-fitting mask. You should measure your facial structure and make comparisons to the measurements companies and resellers provide. Where possible, you should test the mask’s fit before making your purchase (see below). Every brand and company have their own means of sizing, so avoid making a decision based on the S, M, L, etc. label. These aren’t universal measurements. If you have more than one mask, you’ll likely have noticed that they have different size labels—even though they have the same (or similar) measurements.

The skirt is another important factor to consider when choosing a scuba mask. Silicone skirts do cost a little more, but the benefits are well worth the price. They provide better comfort levels, last a lot longer, and will most certainly create a better seal. This is why companies like Mares and ScubaPro have gone to such great lengths developing their Tri-comfort, Liquidskin, and Trufit technologies!

Finally, you want to take a look at the mask’s straps and buckles. You’ll be dealing with these quite regularly after all. A wide-split strap, or an x-fit design like that of the Mares i3 Sunrise, will be far more comfortable and secure. Even more importantly, is the buckle system, which should allow you to make necessary adjustments in the water with ease. Slap-straps, push buckles, and swivel buckles each have their own merits, so find one that works for you.

How to Test a Mask’s Fit Before Making Your Purchase

Scuba masks come in a wide variety of designs, colors, and styles. Don’t just go for the one that fits your style though—go for the one that fits your face.

All jokes aside, we’ve already mentioned how important it is that your scuba mask fits properly. There aren’t any universal sizing standards between different manufacturers. Besides which, no two faces are exactly alike. No one mask is one-size-fits-all. Even the Oceanic Shadow Frameless Mask in our list, which adapts to the shape of your face over time, comes in different sizes.

Most masks have a skirt that ranges from four and a half to five inches in width between the temples, but their shapes differ considerably. You might need something a little smaller, or a little bigger perhaps. What this all boils down to is the same as we said earlier. Where possible, you should test the mask’s fit before making a purchase. This requires some careful undertaking.

Before we run through the steps you should follow, there is one prevalent myth that needs to be dispelled first. The old method of inhaling does not work. All it does is create an artificial vacuum that won’t be replicated in the water. Even a mask that is hopelessly too big for you will have a near-perfect seal with this method! So, what are the steps to properly fitting a mask?

How to Find a Well-Fitting Mask in the Shop

1. First off (and this is very important) remember to take your regulator with you when testing a mask’s fit. A snorkel will suffice as a substitute if you don’t want to carry your regulator around with you when shopping for a mask. Basically, you need something to see how well the mask will fit when you have a mouthpiece in. The regulator or snorkel will change the shape of your face and distort the mask somewhat. You’ll have your mouthpiece on when in the water, so your mask should fit comfortably and provide a proper seal with it in.
2. Ideally, you should find a mask that has a nose well. This goes without saying, of course, but the nose compartment should give you enough room for your nose between your eyes and the lenses. As far as possible, opt for a mask that allows a little extra space, so you can exhale through your nose when necessary. The nose well is also used for equalizing your ear pressure. This helps you to alleviate and avoid facial and/or ear squeeze when diving. Ideally, the nose compartment should be easily accessible for this reason.
3. Before you even put the mask on, inspect the silicone skirt. If you have a smaller face, with close-set eyes, nose, and mouth, a low-profile mask will suffice. These have a smaller skirt. On the other hand, if you have a larger face, with wide-set features, the larger skirt of a high-profile mask would be a better fit. It’s worth mentioning that there are exceptions to the rule, but it’s a good rule of thumb to bear in mind. Always remember to take into consideration your cheekbones.
4. Take off the strap, or make it as loose as possible. You’ll want to test the strap later on for comfort and adjustability, but in terms of the fit and seal it isn’t immediately necessary. When you’re submerged, the water pressure is what should force the seal, rather than the strap itself.
5. You’re ready to make contact! Making sure that no stray hairs are getting trapped beneath the skirt, and then wiggle the mask until all edges of the skirting are making contact with your skin. If it feels comfortable and centered, you’re ready to move on to the next step.
6. With the regulator (or snorkel) in, inhale slightly through your nose. As mentioned earlier, don’t inhale too hard. Doing so will distort the silicone skin and provide a false seal. Inhale gently and let go of the mask. If it’s a good fit and has a proper seal, it’ll stick to your face.
7. Leave the mask on for about a minute, then give it a gentle tug. If the seal has formed properly, then it won’t pull away too easily. You might want to repeat this step (and step 6) a couple of times with a varying degree of force behind your tug to make sure you aren’t pulling too softly—or too hard, for that matter. If you feel the mask is indeed coming away too easily, then you should repeat steps 2-7 with another mask.
8. On the other hand, if you feel the seal is sufficient after step 7, then it’s time to adjust the strap again. Pull it close, but not tight. The mask should be held in place against gravity, but only just so. Repeat steps 6 and 7.
9. Time for some vanity! Take a look at yourself in a mirror while wearing the mask. You’re not looking to see whether it matches your style or if you look particularly dashing in the mask, though. What you are looking out for is how well the mask fits your face structure. The first thing to check is to see how far the silicone extends beneath the nose well. If it’s too close to your upper lip, it’s likely to be uncomfortable. Even if it’s not immediately uncomfortable (you’ll have already picked up on that anyway), too much silicone between the nose and upper lip will most certainly cause some discomfort the longer you wear it.
10. Still looking into the mirror, check how well the silicone skirt covers your cheekbones. A well-fitted mask won’t stop short or extend past them. If there’s extra skirting, the seal won’t last underwater, and you’ll be diving with a face full of salt water.
11. If either step 9 or 10 reveal that the skirting is a little (or a lot) too long for your face, it’s time to start from step 2 again. This time, look for a shorter scuba mask, or one that’s roughly the same size and shape but has a lower profile.

So, your chosen mask made it past step 11? That’s great! There’s just one more step. Still, in front of your mirror, start making faces. You’re not going to be diving with a deadpan expression, are you? Smile, make a surprised face, pull your features the way you’re likely to do underwater. If the skirt doesn’t make any gaps above your mouth when making normal facial expressions, then it’s time to head to the counter with your new mask.

Of course, it doesn’t end with your purchase. When you get home, clean the mask properly to get rid of the manufacturing residue that causes the lenses to fog easily. Put it on, and jump into the pool!
There’s no better way to test a mask’s true fit than to properly mimic the way you’ll be using it. Some shops do allow you to return the mask for a refund or replacement if you’ve bought it recently and it hasn’t been used in salt water.

Shopping for Scuba Gear Online

Shopping for scuba gear online is convenient. It saves you time, it saves you gas, it saves you the frustration of having to find parking. Sometimes, it’s even cheaper. But when it comes to masks (and flippers, for that matter), shopping online gets a little complicated.

If you’re buying your first mask, or want to try a new model, head to a physical shop. As we’ve said a few times already by now, the fit is the most important element you should consider when making a purchase. How are you going to test the seal online?

Online shopping for scuba masks is best left alone unless you want to replace your current mask with the exact same model. The only other exception should be when shopping online with a site that has an amazing returns policy! After all, if it doesn’t fit and you can’t return it, you’ve wasted money.

How to Use Your Dive Mask

You’ve decided on a mask, it fits, and now you’re ready to dive. If you’re a first-time diver, you’re not quite ready yet. First, you need to figure out how to use your mask properly. After all, the best equipment is no better than the worst if you don’t know how to use it. While individual models might have some specifics, here are some general tips on how to properly use a scuba mask.

Mask Fog

Remember how we’ve mentioned your new mask is likely to fog easily underwater? This is especially true of frameless mask designs where the lenses are closer to your eyes. It’s true of any new mask, however.

This is because there is a thin film of separation agent left from the manufacturing process. It’s a common occurrence and is due to silicone residue. There are a few mask models that leave the production line with defog pre-applied. For everyone else, it’s best you take a look at the following tips on how best to treat your mask before first-time use. If you don’t, your mask will fog up no matter how much anti-fog product you apply!

Treating Your New Scuba Mask to Prevent Fogging

1. Toothpaste, believe it or not, one of the best ways to remove the silicone residue. Use the simplest toothpaste you can find, preferably one without bleaching agents or confetti strips. Airline toothpaste is probably the best, but you’re not going to book a flight just for the toothpaste. Simply squirt some onto the inner lens and scrub gently with a clean finger or soft cloth. Do this for a few minutes, then leave it overnight. In the morning, use a clean, soft cloth and fresh water to rinse it off.
2. Flaming your lenses is the absolute best method, but it’s a lot trickier than the toothpaste trick. Blacken the glass of your inner lens by running the tip of a flame over it. Using a lighter or tapered candle is easiest, and probably the best option too. This burns the film of separation agent away. Once you’ve got the glass completely black, let the mask cool and wipe the soot off with a soft cloth. You’ll have to repeat the process two or three times. When it becomes difficult to turn the glass black, your work is done. The difficulty comes in making sure you don’t heat the glass up too much. You also need to keep the flame away from the soft silicone skirt, which will melt with very little heat. Needless to say, you don’t want to try this trick with plastic lenses! If you’re nervous about damaging your mask with the flame method, rather play it safe and use toothpaste instead.

Now your new mask is ready for use!

However, you’ll notice that your mask still fogs from time to time, especially on longer dives. Don’t rush back to the candle or your toothpaste tube though. As long as you’ve followed the instructions above, the manufacturing residue will be completely removed.

Any mask will fog from time to time. Why? Simple physics.

The fog is caused by condensation, plain and simple. There’s water vapor in the air, even inside your perfectly sealed mask. When this meets with the cooler glass of the lens, microscopic water droplets are formed.

The surface tension on your mask lenses, the humidity inside your mask, and the water temperature determine the likelihood of fogging. Surfactants (anti-fog or defogging solutions) reduce the surface tension and smooth out the droplets forming on your lens. By creating a uniform layer of moisture, the surfactant ensures the condensation is less visible. So, what are your surfactant options?

Treating Your Used Scuba Mask to Prevent Fogging

1. Commercial defog products, also known as “mask defog”, are available at almost every diving shop. They do vary in price but generally, stick within the $6-$10 range. Quality and efficiency are the major deciding factors in the cost. Don’t feel bad splurging on one of the best. Defog products typically come in two-ounce bottles, but you’ll be able to use it hundreds of times because you only need small drops every time. A good mask defog can last you two or three dives. If you get the chance to buy a more expensive product, go for it—you’ll save money in the long run.
   • All you need to do is apply a single drop onto the inner lens of a dry mask. Using dry, clean fingers, rub the defog evenly across the lens. You can rinse it in either fresh or salt water, but be careful not to rub or touch the inner lens again during or after rinsing. This will remove the surfactant (defog)—as will sunscreen residue on your fingers during application. Best you do this step at home before heading to the ocean.
2. Spit is a quick and easy alternative. Some find it disgusting, others are nonplussed about it. At the end of the day, what works, works. Except using saliva as a surfactant isn’t all that effective. It’s not nearly as long-lasting as a commercial defog solution, for one thing. For another, spit dries out fairly quickly, so if opt for this technique you’ll need to do it shortly before hitting the water. There are a few other points that should be mentioned before we show you how to go about it.
   • First of all, saliva carries a lot of bacteria. Reports of eye infections that are associated with diving are admittedly rare. But those bacteria slowly build up in the hard-to-reach confines of your mask. Secondly, if you are going to use the spit method, take a bottle of water with you for rinsing. Under no circumstances should you use the dive boat’s rinse bucket! These buckets are reserved for those using commercial defog agents only. Some dive boats have a specific product they prefer. If even one diver uses the spit method while sick, or shortly after recovering from illness, and then uses the rinse bucket, everyone could get sick as a result. Rather be considerate and bring a bottle of water.
   • So, how do you use the spit method? Work up some saliva in your mouth and plant it on the inner lens of your dry mask. Rub it around with a clean finger or soft cloth (same as a commercial defogger), then rinse briefly. You don’t want to rinse all the saliva off. Again, don’t touch the lens during or after rinsing. You can use either salt or fresh water.
3. Baby shampoo is another alternative to commercial defoggers. The ratio needs to be one part baby shampoo to one part water. For this reason, many divers keep a bottle of premixed solution with the rest of their scuba gear. The application is exactly the same as commercial surfactants. The reason you want to use baby shampoo rather than standard is because it’s specifically formulated to be hypoallergenic. It’s also far less irritating to the eyes, which is an important consideration. If your mask leaks, the water will likely carry the defogging agent into your eyes. As an added benefit, baby shampoo also smells a lot better than spit.
4. Watered down glycerin soaps and dishwashing liquids can also be used, in the same way as baby shampoo. The main deterrent here would be that these chemicals tend to burn your eyes. Even without a leak, you might find yourself tearing up if you’ve used too much. Another issue is that some of these products aren’t biodegradable. If you have to use them, be careful not to dump any non-biodegradable solutions into the water.
5. Our last tip is something of a diving urban legend. Some say it works, others say it doesn’t. But you may want to test the theory out for yourself next time you have a potato and a knife at hand before you dive. That’s right—rub a cut potato on the inside of your mask lens and briefly rinse! The starch acts as a surfactant. The only problem is if you don’t rinse enough the starch will leave a smudge across your field of vision. And if you rinse too much, you’ve basically wasted a perfectly good potato and will have to contend with a foggy mask.

It’s important to note that for all five of the above defogging methods, you need to make sure your mask is completely dry first. If not, the surfactant won’t bind to the glass, and you’ll end up with a foggy field of vision.

Preventing Fog While Submerged

Even after you’ve applied the best surfactant correctly, your mask is still likely to start fogging at some point during your dive. This is especially true for longer dives.

This is where your breathing patterns come into play.

Chances are, you’re exhaling through your nose every so often while submerged. Whether it’s out of pure habit, or an intentional attempt to equalize your mask, it’s going to happen. But with each occasional puff, more airborne water vapor gathers in your mask. This vapor collects on your lens, where your surfactant disperses it.

The real issue comes into play when you’re exhaling through your nose too often. More and more water vapor is gathering, raising the humidity levels inside your mask. Chances are high that the water you’re in will be a lot colder, so condensation levels will rise accordingly. Eventually, the amount of water vapor in your mask will be so high that it washes away the surfactant.

You may as well have a leaky mask as this point, or a tiny fog machine aimed at your lenses.
So, focus on your technique. Practice inhaling and exhaling through your mouth only.

The Proper Fit

You’ve found the right mask, you’ve treated your lenses, and you’ve practiced your breathing technique so much you sometimes forget you have nostrils. Remember how we showed you to test the seal before making your purchase? Well, you’re going to repeat some of those steps every single time you go diving. Make sure your mask is properly centered on your face, and that it’s comfortable, before tightening the strap.

Don’t make the strap too tight, though. It’s a very common mistake, but it increases the chance of leakage. You want your mask to sit firmly on your face, but it shouldn’t be overly flush against your head. Strap placement is also an easy one to get wrong. Unless you’re using an x-shaped strap like the Mares i3 Sunrise’s, you want the strap to go straight around the middle of your head. If it’s lying to high or too low, you may as well be praying that the water pressure is consistent enough to keep your mask in place. Besides with, you’d be distorting the silicone skirt—which, again, leads to leaking.

Once you’re confident you’ve got your mask on properly, take a deep breath and dip your head under water. This helps you make focused adjustments based on whether or not there’s even the slightest leak or discomfort. Sure, you’ll look like a duck. But if you’re with a group of professionals, you won’t be the only one who does. As you get better over time, you’ll be so practiced that you may not need to do a preliminary dip anymore.

Our Best Scuba Gear Choice

It’s difficult to prescribe the best scuba gear choice. Everyone’s tastes and requirements differ, and what’s best for one diver isn’t necessarily the best for another. We’ve also featured standalone masks as well as sets that include a snorkel. So, to be fair, we’ll give you two editor’s picks.

Editor’s Pick: Mask and Snorkel Set

We almost didn’t do an editor’s choice for the set, because all three have their own unique attractions. It was a difficult decision to make.

In an ideal world, we’d like the panoramic field of vision offered by the Phantom Aquatics Panoramic Scuba Mask, the Sherwood Onyx Mask’s unique push-button buckle system, and impressive glare reduction/color enhancement, and the Cressi Corsica Snorkel’s features special polymer bounce-back shape memory.

We’re not living in an ideal world, however. While such a set may yet come into existence, for now, we have to contend ourselves with one of the three sets. Taking everything into consideration, we opted for the Sherwood Onyx Mask and Snorkel Set. It may not boast the Phantom’s panoramic field of vision, but you’d be hard-pressed to find anything to complain about regarding visibility. The unique push-button buckle system is also a very attractive feature. And while the Sherwood Onyx Snorkel doesn’t have quite the same flexibility as the Corsica, its hydrodynamic J-style design is nothing to be scoffed at.

It was a close call between the Sherwood and the Cressi, though. The latter also boasts enhanced visibility features that reduce reflection and improve color rendition. As referenced above, the Cressi’s Corsica Snorkel is also superior. And the Cressi also boasts a similar buckle strap system.

In the end, comfortability was the deciding factor for us. The Sherwood’s low-profile design allows for a snugger fit than the Cressi, which we felt provided only average comfort.

Editor’s Pick: Mask

If you thought choosing one of three sets was difficult, try picking one out of six masks. Again, each mask offers unique value that puts it ahead of the competition in one way or another. We went back and forth between a few of them trying to single out what we considered the best. Once again, we tried to look at the overall merits. The best mask for one diver is not necessarily the best mask for another, after all.

In the end, we decided to go with the ScubaPro Synergy 2 Trufit Twin Mirrored Lens Mask. The Trufit technology used offered a superior comfort rivaled almost exclusively by the two Mares masks, the i3 Sunrise, and X-VU Liquidskin Sunrise. Mares’ Tri-comfort and Liquidskin technology made it a tough choice, so we had to turn to other factors in narrowing it down from three to one.

All three offered impressive buckle systems allowing for improved micrometric regulation, even with thick gloves on. One wasn’t necessarily better than either of the others.

But where the ScubaPro Synergy 2 Trufit Twin Mirrored Lens Mask stood out for us was in the lenses. It’s included in the model’s name for a reason! The Ultra Clear optical lenses equal the best that the Mares X-VU has to offer, even with the optical upgrade due later this year. What put the Synergy 2 ahead for us was the mirrored lens technology.

With the superior color rendition and glare reduction of the mirrored lenses, it was a clear choice in the end. Pun intended.

Final Words

So, we’ve given you our list of community-based choices for the best scuba gears. If you’re just starting out in following your passion for diving, you now also know the different types of masks available. Hopefully, you’ve also learned which designs are best suited to their respective applications. We’ve also explained how and why a mask fogs, and how to deal with it. And just because our readers mean so much to us, we’ve given you a condensed “how to” guide for using your mask!

Whether you’re a first-timer or a veteran, we hope you’ve learned something. Even if it’s only the new technology and designs coming into play in the best scuba gear 2017.

No review is complete without an editor’s choice. We strive to stay ahead at all times, so we’ve given you two! But at the end of the day, what really matters when buying a mask is how you feel. No two divers will have exactly the same needs and preferences, even if they overlap a lot.

Take what we’ve given, and make it your own. Find the best scuba gear for you, using our reviews as a guide. Happy diving!

www.lamaiscubadiving.com

Marine Species: Flying Squid

We’ve all heard of flying fish, but flying squid? Let’s take a look at these astounding creatures, both in — and flying above — the water.

We’ve all heard of flying fish, but flying squid? Launching themselves through the air, these astounding creatures have only recently been documented out of water as they cruise alongside speeding marine craft. Despite the rare sightings, flying squid are, in fact, bountiful across the world’s oceans. Many ocean-goers may have witnessed a flying squid without knowing what it was.

The Japanese flying squid, Japanese common squid or Pacific flying squid, scientific name Todarodes pacificus, is a squid of the family Ommastrephidae. This animal lives in the northern Pacific Ocean, in the area surrounding Japan, along the entire coast of China up to Russia, then spreading across the Bering Strait east towards the southern coast of Alaska and Canada. They tend to cluster around the central region of Vietnam.

Neon flying squid (Akaika)

Researchers from Hokkaido University in Japan cross-examined a shoal of 100 squid hundreds of miles off the coast of Tokyo. The scientists specifically sought the neon flying squid. This species can fly for more than 100 feet (30 m) for up to three seconds as it escapes predators. This 8-inch-long (20 cm) cephalopod propels itself from the water by opening its frontal mantle, a technique that allows it to draw in water. Consequently, the high-pressure jet of water launches the squid. Once airborne, the squid spreads out its various fins and arms (10 arms and two feeding tentacles), which allows it to glide through the air, at times with great speed, before folding back its fins to re-enter the water.

Distribution and habitat

Located throughout the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans, neon flying squid generally congregate along cold-water fronts. Here, they feed on phytoplankton and zooplankton near the surface at night. These squid live most of their lives descending to depths of 1,000 feet (300 m) and obtain an average life expectancy of one year. eon flying squid are a stunning mauve color and will grow up to 24 inches (60 cm) long.

Often targeted by commercial drift-net fishing operations — especially the Japanese — we know that the squid spend their summer and fall months in the northern latitudes before heading south during the winter to spawn. Neon flying squid play an important role in the pelagic ecosystem. And, as with so many other species in the pelagic zone, both fishing demand and warming oceans are major threats. The Japanese squid can live in water from 5 to 27 °C, and tend to inhabit the upper layers of the ocean. They are short-lived, only surviving about a year.

Life cycle

Within this year of life, the squid mature from their larval form, feed and grow, migrate, and at the end of their lives, congregate at the mating grounds, where they reproduce. Three subpopulations have been identified in Japanese waters. “The main group spawns in winter in the East China Sea, the second in autumn, west of Kyushu, and the third, minor group in spring/summer in the Sea of Japan as well as off northeastern Japan.

“Their migration moves north, then south, tending to follow the surface currents. The squid tend to travel in large schools of more or less uniform size [meaning] that it is often possible to follow the growth of cohorts from recruitment to spawning, although the earliest part of the life history is generally more difficult to study because the larvae are always pelagic and some are rarely caught”.[8]

Squid generally only live one year because as soon as they reproduce, they die. Males mature first, and “transfer their spermatophores on the still immature females.” Then, on the continuing journey south, the females “mature and spawn 300 to 4,000 small, elliptical or semi-spherical eggs.” The squid migrate together, and lay all their eggs in the same area where they were born. The eggs hatch into larvae after only 102–113 hours (somewhere around five days), depending on the water temperature.

Diet

Squid are difficult to study individually in the lab, because “the animals appear to become stressed by isolation. However, the planktonic larvae are believed to feed on phytoplankton and zooplankton until they grow large enough to begin feeding on fish. When the squid mature more, they will eat mainly fish and crustaceans, but will also resort to cannibalism, especially when trapped in nets together.

Lamai Scuba Diving

How To Clean and Maintain Your Scuba Diving Wetsuit

Lingering saltwater, sand, silt and other unsavory liquids can wear down on your wetsuit or get it stinky in a hurry. To keep your wetsuit in tip-top shape and have it last as long as you can fit, it’s important to properly prep and clean it before and after each dive. Here are a few tips from our Gear Editor on keeping your scuba diving wetsuits in great shape.

WETSUIT CARE — BEFORE YOU DIVE

• CHECK ALL ZIPPERS to make sure they slide freely. If there’s any corrosion, SCRUB the zipper WITH A TOOTHBRUSH AND WHITE VINEGAR, then rinse it thoroughly. If it’s clean but still slides hard, you can lubricate it with a little zipper wax.

• CHECK FOR TORN SEAMS OR LOOSE STITCHING, and to make sure any patches on knees or elbows are in place.

• Use only an APPROVED NEOPRENE ADHESIVE to make any minor repairs.

• Before donning your suit, be sure to remove your watch and any other jewelry or equipment that could damage your suit.

WETSUIT CARE — AFTER YOU DIVE

• With the suit inside out, SOAK FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES in clean, fresh water (swimming pool dips don’t count, since chlorine will damage the suit).

• MAKE SURE ZIPPERS ARE CLEAN from salt or sand and that they slide freely; if metal zips are corroded, scrub with a toothbrush and white vinegar.

• If the suit is smelly or dirty, you can HAND WASH IT WITH A GENTLE SOAP like wetsuit shampoo or baby shampoo.

• THOROUGHLY RINSE THE SUIT and hang it out of the sun, still inside-out, on a wide hanger to help prevents creases.

Wetsuit Storage:

1. Wetsuit material can develop a permanent crease if left folded for a extended period of time. It is best to store your wetsuit laying flat. If that is not possible, you can store your suit on a hanger. Use as thick a hanger as possible to better support the weight of the suit. The thicker the suit, the heavier, and therefore the thicker your hanger should be. There are several after-market hangers available designed specifically for this purpose.
2. Store in a cool, dry and protected place out of direct sunlight.
3. Do not store your wetsuit in garage if the garage is used to park a vehicle. The exhaust emissions from the vehicle can over time deteriorate the neoprene.

Chemicals/Solvents:

1. Avoid any contact with oil, gasoline, aerosols, or chemical solvents.
2. Do not expose any part to aerosol spray, as some aerosol propellants attack or degrade rubber and plastic materials.
3. Do not use any type of alcohol, solvent or petroleum based substances to clean or lubricate any part.
4. Do not store your equipment near any oil, gasoline, chemicals, or solvents.

Scuba Diving Tours

The Dive Computer, an Essential Item You Should Own

The recreational dive computer has allowed divers to extend their diving as well as giving a better means to prevent DCI. The development and publishing of the recreational dive tables was one of the first steps that increased the safety of divers. These tables were a modification of the tables that the U.S. Navy had developed for their divers. For the recreational diver, the Navy tables had some fundamental even fatal flaws. Navy divers normally worked at one depth, they descend, do the job and return to the surface. The No-Decompression Limits (NDL) were easy to follow for them. Recreational diver are more likely to spend time at different depths while diving. So following the NDL left the potential of unused diving time. On the other side of the coin, the Navy tables accepted a higher degree of risk than a recreational diver could be expected to accept. Navy divers would follow the same tables in times of war, were mission requirements were higher. The Navy divers also has rapid access to doctors knowledgeable in dive medicine and a better network of decompression chambers. The recreational tables used the same science, however, they assume a smaller number of acceptable DCS cases.

The Navy developed the dive tables primarily because their first attempts to make a mechanical device were too unreliable. Devices were designed in the early 1950s, but it was not until 1984, that the Navy had a device that was somewhat dependable. Still, they used the tables for planning. The concept of multiple level diving and the advancement of electronics brought in the early dive computers. As technology advanced and prices stabilized they became an acceptable tool for the recreational diver. We now teach you on your open water course how to us a dive computer on all of your training dives.

Why you should use a Dive Computer

The recreation dive tables, now in use, took decades of study to develop and they have been a great tool to reduce the incidents of decompression sickness (DCS). However, they are based on a concept of a steady descent, diving at one depth and a steady consistent return to the surface. Divers seldom dive that way. We might drop down to a wreck, explore it at the bottom, then come up five meters and explore the bridge. Maybe we will follow the contours of a reef, sometime going shallower than others. The point is we are not stationary and our depths changes. A dive computer is measuring our depths and times, then it calculates our remaining NDL times. If we go slightly deeper than the depth we planned with our dive tables, the dive computer will tell you how much NDL time you have. No guess work. It is also a constant reminder, every time we look at our gauges, it is right there reminding us how much time we have left with our dive. There is also a visual display that shows how close you are to the maximum safe level of nitrogen in your system. Another item not mention as much is the calculation of the surface interval. The dive computer will still be operating in the background keeping track of your off gassing. So when you start your next dive, the nitrogen in your system is already account for.

Many dive computer allow different user profiles. A diver that has one or more risk factors for DCS, can select a more conservative evaluation of his dive. This takes some the guesswork out of the planning.

Technical boring stuff

The science behind the functioning of a dive computer and the algorithms they use are very complicated. This explanation will give you some insight into how a dive computer works, however, it is oversimplified. The body absorbs nitrogen while under pressure, however, the rate of that absorption varies greatly between the different types of muscles and other tissues. Certain tissue will absorb the nitrogen much faster than others and will reach a saturation point where no other nitrogen can be absorbed in a faster time. The amount of nitrogen that can be absorbed is a factor of the pressure. This ability to absorb or release nitrogen is expressed in a half life in minutes. In your chemistry classes you learned that radioactive isotopes lose 50% of their radioactivity each half life. A similar concept is used in dive computers were each tissue will lose ½ of its nitrogen load over a certain period. The algorithms group the body structures into groups with the same half life. Many of the dive computer manufacturers use 10 groups that can be called tissues or compartments. Mares a leading manufacture has the following half times in minutes: 2.5, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 60, 80, 120 and 240.

As we start our dive, the computer calculated the time and pressure of the dive and applies that information to the compartments. This means that the dive computer has calculated the percent of saturation for each of the compartments. The algorithms are programmed with a maximum ascent rate and a percent of saturation, expressed in partial pressure of nitrogen, that is considered safe. To calculate a NDL time, the computer looks at all compartments, determines the amount of off gassing done while returning to the surface. It then tells the diver the remaining time for the compartment that will have the highest saturation upon returning to the surface. The same process of using algorithms were done to create the current recreational dive tables.

Why should own your dive computer and not rent?

The proper use of a dive computer can lead to safer diving. While dive computers are easy to use, each model has different features and may present the data in a different manner. You need to fully understand the operating manual for such a critical safety device. Getting a rental is better than none, but unless you have used it before, you are not getting its full benefits. Most liveaboard dive vessels require the use of a dive computer on all dives. Some dive centers have also adopted that requirement, as has a number of locations. Training agencies are reducing the reliance on dive tables and are focusing on computers. It may not be long before they will be mandatory. The price of a recreational dive computer that will also allow you to dive with nitrox is reasonable. The purchase price verses renting one can be recovered within a few rentals. If you are taking a dive vacation, you will likely be able to purchase one for less than the rentals.

Dive computers will store the dive information and recent computers will allow you to export the data and integrate it with your dive logs. You can have a visual representation of your dive depth and times for later reference. This is a feature not frequently available to you will a rental.

The dive computer has proven itself for many years. You will see few experienced divers, diving without one. While technology advances, the dive computer available for purchase will not be obsolete anytime soon. The core functions, the calculations that make you safe, are proven solid. An investment today, means you will recover that investment sooner.

Decompression Illness

Knowledge is your Best Protection

hey say that for every Ying there is a Yang, For every good there is a bad. For scuba diving the bad is Decompression illness, or DCI. To quote the Diver Alert Network (DAN), the largest organization focused on dive medicine,

“DCI encompasses two diseases, decompression sickness (DCS) and arterial gas embolism (AGE). DCS is thought to result from bubbles growing in tissue and causing local damage. While AGE results from bubbles entering the lung circulation, traveling through the arteries and causing tissue damage at a distance by blocking blood flow at the small vessel level.”

While there are similarities between the two, it best to remember DCS relates to tissue and AGE to blood supply.

In the early day of diving, before we learned about the effects of gases under pressure on a divers body, DCI caused many deaths and gave scuba diving the notoriety of being a deadly thrill. It is not really an accurate statement saying the effects were unknown, it is more accurate to say they were not understood, not by medical personnel and clearly not by divers.

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Decompression Sickness, What is it and how to avoid it

In your open water training, you review the basic principles of three laws of chemistry, they are Boyle’s, Charles’s and Henry’s laws. Elements of these laws will help to explain how gases under pressure react within our bodies. In 1662, a physicist and chemist named Robert Boyle proved a theory that volume and pressure were inversely proportional. We learned Boyle’s law in science whereas when pressure increases volume decreases. This principal is not only important for us to understand for DCS avoidance but also impacts how long a tank of air will last. Boyle also believed that nitrogen under pressure would be introduced into our blood stream in larger amounts and forced into tissue. Henry’s Law in 1803 proved that Boyle was right. It also showed two important concepts. Increased pressure also increased the solubility of blood to carry nitrogen, and the tissue would try to balance the present of nitrogen in the lungs. Boyle also stated that if the nitrogen was not able to escape the tissue, it could cause physical damage. As we descend the partial pressure of nitrogen we breath goes up, as well at the blood’s ability to carry it. So the tissues start loading nitrogen. When we ascend, the partial pressure is now higher in the tissue, so it will start exciting the tissue. However, the blood solubility for nitrogen has been reduced so there is a delay leaving the tissue. Think of it as a three lane highway going in but just a one lane coming out. If you give it enough time, it will get out. DCS is medically classified into two types, type I which is pain only, and type II which covers the rest.

In the late 1800’s, workers building the Eads Bridge (St. Louis) and the Brooklyn Bridge (New York City) were becoming ill and many of them died from the illness. The bridges were being built using caissons. These are metal devices with an air lock at the top and open at the bottom. They were placed on the river bed and filled with compresses air to pump the water out. The pressure was maintained to keep the water out. Workers would enter the device’s airlock, travel to the bottom to work digging and placing the foundations and anchors for the bridges. When they returned to the surface, many of them became ill within minutes. The illness became known as Caissons Disease, which we now know as Decompression Sickness. DCS can be slow in its appearance. Most cases appear between 5 minutes and six hours after a dive, a small percentage up to 12 hours and even smaller percentage as long as 48 hours. Flying or going to a higher elevation can also bring on DCS if excessive nitrogen remain in your tissue. Divers are advised to wait 24 hours before flying. Symptoms of DCS which the workers also endure are (these are things you feel):

• Unusual fatigue
• Skin itch
• Pain in joints and / or muscles of the arms, legs or torso
• Dizziness, vertigo, ringing in the ears
• Numbness, tingling and paralysis
• Shortness of breath

Signs of DCS (Item that are noticeable):

• Skin may show a blotchy rash
• Paralysis, muscle weakness
• Difficulty urinating
• Confusion, personality changes, bizarre behavior
• Amnesia,
• tremors
• Staggering
• Coughing up bloody, frothy sputum
• Collapse or unconsciousness

It did not take long before all workers suffer to some degree from DCS. It was noticed that the symptoms became milder or disappeared entirely while the worker was deep in the caissons. In the medical studies it was found that if they brought workers up slowly, fewer became ill, even less if they stopped for a few minutes on the way up. These doctors for the bridge building company’s were the first to bring light to the concept that we use for maximum assent rate and the principals of decompression diving. On a light note, the situation with the workers lead to the development of the term bends. In scuba slang we will hear someone say, “they got bent” or “be careful of the bends”. Technically this applies to type I DCS. For the caisson workers, within a few minutes most were bent over in some degree of pain after their work shift ending. At the time there was an upper class fashion called the Grecian Bends. The body position of the men in pain from their work was very similar to the body position of women wearing the Grecian Bends style. So the term was also applied to the workers.

These early studies were expanded upon by the US Navy and the U.S. Navy dive tables were developed. Using a maximum rate of assent as a part of the calculations, the dive tables gave some guidance how long a diver could stay down and avoid DCS. This is the science behind all the dive tables, dive computers and warnings you receive.

In your open water training, you will learn or did learn the principals of avoiding DCS. They include how to read the dive tables and use them to plan your dives. Also, included will be the safe rate of ascent and the practice of a 3 minute stop at 5 meters for extra safety. Currently, the use of the dive tables is not as frequent as it once was after training. Dive tables are based on diving to a specified depth and the calculations are based on that. Technology in the form of dive computers can read current depth and time then use formulas to give a real time evaluation based on your dive. Still, having a good understanding of dive tables are a good foundation to manage your risk.

Unexplained DCS

DCS does have another dark side, even if you follow all the rules, you still can get DCS. It is known that certain factors can increase the risk of DCS. Certain drugs, a hangover, being overweight and dehydration are just some the known factors that might make someone more likely to become a victim. Even setting those factors aside, some people get it anyway. The percentage is small but still there.

Treatment

If you have any concern that you or a fellow diver is being effected by DCI you need to seek medical attention. As an immediate first aid, administer 100% oxygen. This may be enough to slow the progression and maybe even stop it. Then get evaluated by a medical professional knowledgeable of dive medicine. A decompression chamber is used to treat DCI, it brings a patient to a condition under pressure and slowly brings them back to surface conditions. Prompt treatment may result in no lasting complications.

Arterial Gas Embolism (AGE)

The second member of the Decompression illness classification is the Arterial Gas Embolism. AGE happens when bubble in the blood stream blocks the flow of blood, a bubble larger than the capillary vessel. The lack of blood can cause tissue damage. As the brain is one of the largest users of blood, it is the one organ most at risk. AGE can cause strokes and create brain damage. The percent of AGE cases only make up about 7% of the DCI cases. As bad as that sounds there is one thing to remember, AGE is almost 100% preventable. When you breathe, the lungs diffuses gas into the blood stream. Large molecules are blocked. AGE is caused by a Pulmonary Expansion barotrauma. This happens when you hold your breath during ascent. The air in your lungs expand as the gas does. However, when it reaches its limit it will burst, just like adding air to a balloon eventually it will burst. This rupture in the lung will allow air to pass directly into the blood stream without the larger molecules being blocked. In some rare cases AGE has occurred on seemly normal ascents. These cases have mostly been linked to preexisting heart or lung conditions.

Symptoms of AGE

• Dizziness
• Visual blurring
• Areas of decreased sensation
• Chest pain
• Disorientation

Signs of AGE

• Bloody froth from mouth or nose
• Paralysis or weakness
• Convulsions
• Unconsciousness
• Cessation of breathing
• Death

Many of the signs and Symptoms of AGE are similar to DCS type II, and the first aid for them are the same. Administer 100% oxygen, make comfortable and seek medical attention immediately. AGE symptoms appear rapidly and escalate fast. Unlike DCS which seldom has symptoms underwater, death due to AGE can happen before the diver can reach the surface.

Insurance

There is an old joke against the medical field, it says the leading cause of heart attacks after surgery is seeing the hospital bill. The best means to avoid this is to have good medical insurance. Even if you have medical insurance, consider getting dive medical insurance. Dive insurance companies generally have agreements in place with decompression chambers where the chambers will accept the insurance. Most insurance companies do not and if not, you will need to made a deposit before treatment is started. Deposits can range from $5,000 to 25,000 cash. Best to think ahead.

Diving’s Worst Case

When you take your Open Water Diver training, most of the knowledge section and many of the skills relate to DCI and how to avoid it. It is these skills that you will practice and master that makes DCI a managed risk. Forty years ago if you became a certified scuba diver your life insurance company would cancel your policy. Some policies would have a higher premium for divers and exclude any benefits for deaths that happened elated to diving. Times have changed, today diving is considered safer than horseback riding, and you have a greater chance of being injured on a golf course than getting a DCI. This is due to the training and you understanding of the risk.

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