Scuba Gear Buyer’s Guide
Having the best diving gear will always enhance your experience underwater. Your mask is arguably the most important element to consider when gathering your equipment. You’re going to want to put a lot of thought into choosing the right mask, regardless of whether you prefer snorkeling or scuba diving.
Many beginners find this out the hard way. When you’re starting out, it’s a good idea to rent equipment first. This allows you to get a feel for the sport before investing a lot of money into it. The downfall to renting equipment is that they’re not often of the best quality. You end up with a leaky mask more often than not, which results in a disrupted dive.
No matter how tough you think you are, having salt water seep into your eyes is uncomfortable. That’s why we built this list, after all—to help you decide on the best scuba gear to match your price range. Whether you’re starting out or looking to replace your old mask, the nine we’ve listed are the best money can buy. And that’s not just our opinion—it’s the general consensus of the community!
Something to keep in mind though: it doesn’t matter if you have the best gear if you don’t know how to use it properly. We’ve set out to help you select your equipment, and we’ll give you some general guidelines too. But it’s up to you to invest time in reading up on how to use your specific model properly.
You may also want to consider buying additional straps as a backup. Try to get a different style to the one your mask comes with, in case you decide you need it. Some scuba masks come with a protective box already, but if yours doesn’t you should definitely get one. The box will keep your mask safe from scratches when you’re not using it.
What Are the Different Types of Masks?
If you are starting out, then it’s also helpful to understand the different types of masks available on the market. There are several, and they typically differ the most in terms of design and features.
We’ve listed both framed and frameless masks above (as well as the hybrid Atomic Aquatics Venom mask), but what are the advantages of either?
Frameless
As the name suggests, a frameless mask doesn’t have a thick frame. This allows the lenses to be placed closer to your eyes, which can greatly enhance visibility. The only downfall in this is that they do tend to fog easier, unfortunately. But if you’re looking for a lightweight, low-profile mask, then frameless is certainly the way to go.
Due to the lack of a frame, the silicone rubber skirt is attached directly to the lenses. This also makes it easier to fold them up, whether for storage or as a backup. Some of the masks we listed are able to fit right in your BC pocket!
Framed
Framed masks, on the other hand, are far more rigid, and the lenses are further from your eyes. While this little bit of distance can impair visibility slightly, it also makes the lenses less likely to fog up. Many experienced divers say that a framed mask will fit your face with better stability and security than frameless designs. If you find yourself struggling to find a mask that fits your face well, experts suggest narrowing your search down to framed designs only.
Hybrid
And then, of course, there’s the hybrid SubFrame/Frameless design offered by the Atomic Aquatics Venom mask. As discussed earlier, this innovative model gives you the best of both. You’ll benefit from the low-profile and low-volume advantage of a frameless mask, without losing the stable, secure fit of the framed.
Single Pane vs Double Pane vs Quad Pane
Another way in which masks are distinguished is by the number of lens panes they have.
Single lens masks have one pane without any separation (or, as is the case with the Venom, a deep bridge that cuts into the pane without separating it totally). This can have the advantage of an increased field of vision, but this is largely decided by the angle of the lens. One thing you should be aware of is that because there is more glass present, single pane masks tend to be heavier than their double pane alternatives.
Single lens masks have one pane without any separation (or, as is the case with the Venom, a deep bridge that cuts into the pane without separating it totally). This can have the advantage of an increased field of vision, but this is largely decided by the angle of the lens. One thing you should be aware of is that because there is more glass present, single pane masks tend to be heavier than their double pane alternatives.
Double pane lenses are almost like wearing a pair of glasses. Two separate panes are divided where your nose is. Most designs use this advantageously, utilizing reverse teardrop shapes set at an angle for a wider field of vision. A badly designed double pane mask might give you a ghost blind spot in the middle, where your nose forms a semi-transparent barrier in your field of vision where your eyes cross slightly. So, if you do opt for a double pane design, make sure it’s one of the best! One major advantage a well-designed double pane scuba mask typically has over the single lens is its decreased volume.
The third option is a quad pane design. This is similar to the Phantom Aquatics Panoramic Scuba mask, except that instead of a single lens with two side panes you have four windows. In basic terms, it’s a double pane design with two side panes. This allows you to look ahead, left, and right without having to turn your head. As is the case with the Phantom Aquatics mask in our list, this affords you a much wider panoramic field of vision.
Nose Well vs Purge Valve
The third way to distinguish masks is whether they have a purge valve or not. Many mask designs have a simple silicone rubber nose well, which—depending on the lens setting—often allows you to equalize your ear pressure. You can still do so with a purge valve design, of course. The main difference is your exhalation point. Without a purge valve, you’ll have to expel air through your mouth.
A purge valve, on the other hand, is a feature placed at the bottom of the nose well. This allows you to exhale through your nose, without breaking the seal.
Whether you opt for a model with or without the purge valve is largely up to personal preference and level of expertise.
Full-Face Snorkel Masks
A new mask design has emerged recently that engulfs the entire face. A dry snorkel is fixed at the top. This is known simply as the full-face snorkel mask. While popular with some snorkel divers, it isn’t a viable option for anyone wanting to do scuba diving. As a result, they do not feature on our list, but they’re worth a mention regardless.
Choosing the Right Mask
The full-face snorkel mask notwithstanding, there’s no fundamental difference between the snorkel and scuba mask. When deciding on a model, what you want to focus on rather is quality and durability.
With snorkeling, you’re not very likely to dive too far below the surface. The mask is not going to experience any real pressure as a result. This means that technically speaking, you can get away with less durable masks. Of course, you should always opt for the most durable model nevertheless. But our focus is on scuba diving, and therefore on scuba masks.
With scuba diving, there are added risks involved that don’t come into play with snorkeling. One of these is the amount of pressure your mask will be subjected to. A tough frame will go a long way in protecting your face should your mask sustain any damage, and will handle the increased pressure a lot better than a snorkel mask. This isn’t to say that frameless masks aren’t as suitable, of course.
One necessity that certainly isn’t up for debate is the glass used for the lenses. If it isn’t tempered, don’t even consider making a purchase! Tempered glass will handle deep water pressure well. Even if you do suffer damage to your mask, the tempered glass will withstand a lot better than cheaper variants.
There are a few common rules that you should follow no matter the type of mask you buy. Regardless of whether you opt for a scuba or snorkel mask, the most important factor is how well it fits your face.
A mask that fits poorly isn’t going to have a decent seal. You can expect to have water seeping in. As we mentioned earlier, a leaky mask is very disruptive to your dive. You’ll be returning to the surface to drain your mask, and have to contend with the discomfort of having salt water in your eyes. Simply put, if you have a leaky mask you may as well not be wearing one at all!
This is why it’s so important to have a well-fitting mask. You should measure your facial structure and make comparisons to the measurements companies and resellers provide. Where possible, you should test the mask’s fit before making your purchase (see below). Every brand and company have their own means of sizing, so avoid making a decision based on the S, M, L, etc. label. These aren’t universal measurements. If you have more than one mask, you’ll likely have noticed that they have different size labels—even though they have the same (or similar) measurements.
The skirt is another important factor to consider when choosing a scuba mask. Silicone skirts do cost a little more, but the benefits are well worth the price. They provide better comfort levels, last a lot longer, and will most certainly create a better seal. This is why companies like Mares and ScubaPro have gone to such great lengths developing their Tri-comfort, Liquidskin, and Trufit technologies!
Finally, you want to take a look at the mask’s straps and buckles. You’ll be dealing with these quite regularly after all. A wide-split strap, or an x-fit design like that of the Mares i3 Sunrise, will be far more comfortable and secure. Even more importantly, is the buckle system, which should allow you to make necessary adjustments in the water with ease. Slap-straps, push buckles, and swivel buckles each have their own merits, so find one that works for you.
How to Test a Mask’s Fit Before Making Your Purchase
Scuba masks come in a wide variety of designs, colors, and styles. Don’t just go for the one that fits your style though—go for the one that fits your face.
All jokes aside, we’ve already mentioned how important it is that your scuba mask fits properly. There aren’t any universal sizing standards between different manufacturers. Besides which, no two faces are exactly alike. No one mask is one-size-fits-all. Even the Oceanic Shadow Frameless Mask in our list, which adapts to the shape of your face over time, comes in different sizes.
Most masks have a skirt that ranges from four and a half to five inches in width between the temples, but their shapes differ considerably. You might need something a little smaller, or a little bigger perhaps. What this all boils down to is the same as we said earlier. Where possible, you should test the mask’s fit before making a purchase. This requires some careful undertaking.
Before we run through the steps you should follow, there is one prevalent myth that needs to be dispelled first. The old method of inhaling does not work. All it does is create an artificial vacuum that won’t be replicated in the water. Even a mask that is hopelessly too big for you will have a near-perfect seal with this method! So, what are the steps to properly fitting a mask?
How to Find a Well-Fitting Mask in the Shop
- First off (and this is very important) remember to take your regulator with you when testing a mask’s fit. A snorkel will suffice as a substitute if you don’t want to carry your regulator around with you when shopping for a mask. Basically, you need something to see how well the mask will fit when you have a mouthpiece in. The regulator or snorkel will change the shape of your face and distort the mask somewhat. You’ll have your mouthpiece on when in the water, so your mask should fit comfortably and provide a proper seal with it in.
- Ideally, you should find a mask that has a nose well. This goes without saying, of course, but the nose compartment should give you enough room for your nose between your eyes and the lenses. As far as possible, opt for a mask that allows a little extra space, so you can exhale through your nose when necessary. The nose well is also used for equalizing your ear pressure. This helps you to alleviate and avoid facial and/or ear squeeze when diving. Ideally, the nose compartment should be easily accessible for this reason.
- Before you even put the mask on, inspect the silicone skirt. If you have a smaller face, with close-set eyes, nose, and mouth, a low-profile mask will suffice. These have a smaller skirt. On the other hand, if you have a larger face, with wide-set features, the larger skirt of a high-profile mask would be a better fit. It’s worth mentioning that there are exceptions to the rule, but it’s a good rule of thumb to bear in mind. Always remember to take into consideration your cheekbones.
- Take off the strap, or make it as loose as possible. You’ll want to test the strap later on for comfort and adjustability, but in terms of the fit and seal it isn’t immediately necessary. When you’re submerged, the water pressure is what should force the seal, rather than the strap itself.
- You’re ready to make contact! Making sure that no stray hairs are getting trapped beneath the skirt, and then wiggle the mask until all edges of the skirting are making contact with your skin. If it feels comfortable and centered, you’re ready to move on to the next step.
- With the regulator (or snorkel) in, inhale slightly through your nose. As mentioned earlier, don’t inhale too hard. Doing so will distort the silicone skin and provide a false seal. Inhale gently and let go of the mask. If it’s a good fit and has a proper seal, it’ll stick to your face.
- Leave the mask on for about a minute, then give it a gentle tug. If the seal has formed properly, then it won’t pull away too easily. You might want to repeat this step (and step 6) a couple of times with a varying degree of force behind your tug to make sure you aren’t pulling too softly—or too hard, for that matter. If you feel the mask is indeed coming away too easily, then you should repeat steps 2-7 with another mask.
- On the other hand, if you feel the seal is sufficient after step 7, then it’s time to adjust the strap again. Pull it close, but not tight. The mask should be held in place against gravity, but only just so. Repeat steps 6 and 7.
- Time for some vanity! Take a look at yourself in a mirror while wearing the mask. You’re not looking to see whether it matches your style or if you look particularly dashing in the mask, though. What you are looking out for is how well the mask fits your face structure. The first thing to check is to see how far the silicone extends beneath the nose well. If it’s too close to your upper lip, it’s likely to be uncomfortable. Even if it’s not immediately uncomfortable (you’ll have already picked up on that anyway), too much silicone between the nose and upper lip will most certainly cause some discomfort the longer you wear it.
- Still looking into the mirror, check how well the silicone skirt covers your cheekbones. A well-fitted mask won’t stop short or extend past them. If there’s extra skirting, the seal won’t last underwater, and you’ll be diving with a face full of salt water.
- If either step 9 or 10 reveal that the skirting is a little (or a lot) too long for your face, it’s time to start from step 2 again. This time, look for a shorter scuba mask, or one that’s roughly the same size and shape but has a lower profile.
So, your chosen mask made it past step 11? That’s great! There’s just one more step. Still, in front of your mirror, start making faces. You’re not going to be diving with a deadpan expression, are you? Smile, make a surprised face, pull your features the way you’re likely to do underwater. If the skirt doesn’t make any gaps above your mouth when making normal facial expressions, then it’s time to head to the counter with your new mask.
Of course, it doesn’t end with your purchase. When you get home, clean the mask properly to get rid of the manufacturing residue that causes the lenses to fog easily. Put it on, and jump into the pool!
There’s no better way to test a mask’s true fit than to properly mimic the way you’ll be using it. Some shops do allow you to return the mask for a refund or replacement if you’ve bought it recently and it hasn’t been used in salt water.
There’s no better way to test a mask’s true fit than to properly mimic the way you’ll be using it. Some shops do allow you to return the mask for a refund or replacement if you’ve bought it recently and it hasn’t been used in salt water.
Shopping for Scuba Gear Online
Shopping for scuba gear online is convenient. It saves you time, it saves you gas, it saves you the frustration of having to find parking. Sometimes, it’s even cheaper. But when it comes to masks (and flippers, for that matter), shopping online gets a little complicated.
If you’re buying your first mask, or want to try a new model, head to a physical shop. As we’ve said a few times already by now, the fit is the most important element you should consider when making a purchase. How are you going to test the seal online?
Online shopping for scuba masks is best left alone unless you want to replace your current mask with the exact same model. The only other exception should be when shopping online with a site that has an amazing returns policy! After all, if it doesn’t fit and you can’t return it, you’ve wasted money.
How to Use Your Dive Mask
You’ve decided on a mask, it fits, and now you’re ready to dive. If you’re a first-time diver, you’re not quite ready yet. First, you need to figure out how to use your mask properly. After all, the best equipment is no better than the worst if you don’t know how to use it. While individual models might have some specifics, here are some general tips on how to properly use a scuba mask.
Mask Fog
Remember how we’ve mentioned your new mask is likely to fog easily underwater? This is especially true of frameless mask designs where the lenses are closer to your eyes. It’s true of any new mask, however.
This is because there is a thin film of separation agent left from the manufacturing process. It’s a common occurrence and is due to silicone residue. There are a few mask models that leave the production line with defog pre-applied. For everyone else, it’s best you take a look at the following tips on how best to treat your mask before first-time use. If you don’t, your mask will fog up no matter how much anti-fog product you apply!
Treating Your New Scuba Mask to Prevent Fogging
- Toothpaste, believe it or not, one of the best ways to remove the silicone residue. Use the simplest toothpaste you can find, preferably one without bleaching agents or confetti strips. Airline toothpaste is probably the best, but you’re not going to book a flight just for the toothpaste. Simply squirt some onto the inner lens and scrub gently with a clean finger or soft cloth. Do this for a few minutes, then leave it overnight. In the morning, use a clean, soft cloth and fresh water to rinse it off.
- Flaming your lenses is the absolute best method, but it’s a lot trickier than the toothpaste trick. Blacken the glass of your inner lens by running the tip of a flame over it. Using a lighter or tapered candle is easiest, and probably the best option too. This burns the film of separation agent away. Once you’ve got the glass completely black, let the mask cool and wipe the soot off with a soft cloth. You’ll have to repeat the process two or three times. When it becomes difficult to turn the glass black, your work is done. The difficulty comes in making sure you don’t heat the glass up too much. You also need to keep the flame away from the soft silicone skirt, which will melt with very little heat. Needless to say, you don’t want to try this trick with plastic lenses! If you’re nervous about damaging your mask with the flame method, rather play it safe and use toothpaste instead.
Now your new mask is ready for use!
However, you’ll notice that your mask still fogs from time to time, especially on longer dives. Don’t rush back to the candle or your toothpaste tube though. As long as you’ve followed the instructions above, the manufacturing residue will be completely removed.
Any mask will fog from time to time. Why? Simple physics.
The fog is caused by condensation, plain and simple. There’s water vapor in the air, even inside your perfectly sealed mask. When this meets with the cooler glass of the lens, microscopic water droplets are formed.
The surface tension on your mask lenses, the humidity inside your mask, and the water temperature determine the likelihood of fogging. Surfactants (anti-fog or defogging solutions) reduce the surface tension and smooth out the droplets forming on your lens. By creating a uniform layer of moisture, the surfactant ensures the condensation is less visible. So, what are your surfactant options?
Treating Your Used Scuba Mask to Prevent Fogging
- Commercial defog products, also known as “mask defog”, are available at almost every diving shop. They do vary in price but generally, stick within the $6-$10 range. Quality and efficiency are the major deciding factors in the cost. Don’t feel bad splurging on one of the best. Defog products typically come in two-ounce bottles, but you’ll be able to use it hundreds of times because you only need small drops every time. A good mask defog can last you two or three dives. If you get the chance to buy a more expensive product, go for it—you’ll save money in the long run.
- All you need to do is apply a single drop onto the inner lens of a dry mask. Using dry, clean fingers, rub the defog evenly across the lens. You can rinse it in either fresh or salt water, but be careful not to rub or touch the inner lens again during or after rinsing. This will remove the surfactant (defog)—as will sunscreen residue on your fingers during application. Best you do this step at home before heading to the ocean.
- Spit is a quick and easy alternative. Some find it disgusting, others are nonplussed about it. At the end of the day, what works, works. Except using saliva as a surfactant isn’t all that effective. It’s not nearly as long-lasting as a commercial defog solution, for one thing. For another, spit dries out fairly quickly, so if opt for this technique you’ll need to do it shortly before hitting the water. There are a few other points that should be mentioned before we show you how to go about it.
- First of all, saliva carries a lot of bacteria. Reports of eye infections that are associated with diving are admittedly rare. But those bacteria slowly build up in the hard-to-reach confines of your mask. Secondly, if you are going to use the spit method, take a bottle of water with you for rinsing. Under no circumstances should you use the dive boat’s rinse bucket! These buckets are reserved for those using commercial defog agents only. Some dive boats have a specific product they prefer. If even one diver uses the spit method while sick, or shortly after recovering from illness, and then uses the rinse bucket, everyone could get sick as a result. Rather be considerate and bring a bottle of water.
- So, how do you use the spit method? Work up some saliva in your mouth and plant it on the inner lens of your dry mask. Rub it around with a clean finger or soft cloth (same as a commercial defogger), then rinse briefly. You don’t want to rinse all the saliva off. Again, don’t touch the lens during or after rinsing. You can use either salt or fresh water.
- Baby shampoo is another alternative to commercial defoggers. The ratio needs to be one part baby shampoo to one part water. For this reason, many divers keep a bottle of premixed solution with the rest of their scuba gear. The application is exactly the same as commercial surfactants. The reason you want to use baby shampoo rather than standard is because it’s specifically formulated to be hypoallergenic. It’s also far less irritating to the eyes, which is an important consideration. If your mask leaks, the water will likely carry the defogging agent into your eyes. As an added benefit, baby shampoo also smells a lot better than spit.
- Watered down glycerin soaps and dishwashing liquids can also be used, in the same way as baby shampoo. The main deterrent here would be that these chemicals tend to burn your eyes. Even without a leak, you might find yourself tearing up if you’ve used too much. Another issue is that some of these products aren’t biodegradable. If you have to use them, be careful not to dump any non-biodegradable solutions into the water.
- Our last tip is something of a diving urban legend. Some say it works, others say it doesn’t. But you may want to test the theory out for yourself next time you have a potato and a knife at hand before you dive. That’s right—rub a cut potato on the inside of your mask lens and briefly rinse! The starch acts as a surfactant. The only problem is if you don’t rinse enough the starch will leave a smudge across your field of vision. And if you rinse too much, you’ve basically wasted a perfectly good potato and will have to contend with a foggy mask.
It’s important to note that for all five of the above defogging methods, you need to make sure your mask is completely dry first. If not, the surfactant won’t bind to the glass, and you’ll end up with a foggy field of vision.
Preventing Fog While Submerged
Even after you’ve applied the best surfactant correctly, your mask is still likely to start fogging at some point during your dive. This is especially true for longer dives.
This is where your breathing patterns come into play.
Chances are, you’re exhaling through your nose every so often while submerged. Whether it’s out of pure habit, or an intentional attempt to equalize your mask, it’s going to happen. But with each occasional puff, more airborne water vapor gathers in your mask. This vapor collects on your lens, where your surfactant disperses it.
The real issue comes into play when you’re exhaling through your nose too often. More and more water vapor is gathering, raising the humidity levels inside your mask. Chances are high that the water you’re in will be a lot colder, so condensation levels will rise accordingly. Eventually, the amount of water vapor in your mask will be so high that it washes away the surfactant.
You may as well have a leaky mask as this point, or a tiny fog machine aimed at your lenses.
So, focus on your technique. Practice inhaling and exhaling through your mouth only.
So, focus on your technique. Practice inhaling and exhaling through your mouth only.
The Proper Fit
You’ve found the right mask, you’ve treated your lenses, and you’ve practiced your breathing technique so much you sometimes forget you have nostrils. Remember how we showed you to test the seal before making your purchase? Well, you’re going to repeat some of those steps every single time you go diving. Make sure your mask is properly centered on your face, and that it’s comfortable, before tightening the strap.
Don’t make the strap too tight, though. It’s a very common mistake, but it increases the chance of leakage. You want your mask to sit firmly on your face, but it shouldn’t be overly flush against your head. Strap placement is also an easy one to get wrong. Unless you’re using an x-shaped strap like the Mares i3 Sunrise’s, you want the strap to go straight around the middle of your head. If it’s lying to high or too low, you may as well be praying that the water pressure is consistent enough to keep your mask in place. Besides with, you’d be distorting the silicone skirt—which, again, leads to leaking.
Once you’re confident you’ve got your mask on properly, take a deep breath and dip your head under water. This helps you make focused adjustments based on whether or not there’s even the slightest leak or discomfort. Sure, you’ll look like a duck. But if you’re with a group of professionals, you won’t be the only one who does. As you get better over time, you’ll be so practiced that you may not need to do a preliminary dip anymore.
Our Best Scuba Gear Choice
It’s difficult to prescribe the best scuba gear choice. Everyone’s tastes and requirements differ, and what’s best for one diver isn’t necessarily the best for another. We’ve also featured standalone masks as well as sets that include a snorkel. So, to be fair, we’ll give you two editor’s picks.
Editor’s Pick: Mask and Snorkel Set
We almost didn’t do an editor’s choice for the set, because all three have their own unique attractions. It was a difficult decision to make.
In an ideal world, we’d like the panoramic field of vision offered by the Phantom Aquatics Panoramic Scuba Mask, the Sherwood Onyx Mask’s unique push-button buckle system, and impressive glare reduction/color enhancement, and the Cressi Corsica Snorkel’s features special polymer bounce-back shape memory.
We’re not living in an ideal world, however. While such a set may yet come into existence, for now, we have to contend ourselves with one of the three sets. Taking everything into consideration, we opted for the Sherwood Onyx Mask and Snorkel Set. It may not boast the Phantom’s panoramic field of vision, but you’d be hard-pressed to find anything to complain about regarding visibility. The unique push-button buckle system is also a very attractive feature. And while the Sherwood Onyx Snorkel doesn’t have quite the same flexibility as the Corsica, its hydrodynamic J-style design is nothing to be scoffed at.
It was a close call between the Sherwood and the Cressi, though. The latter also boasts enhanced visibility features that reduce reflection and improve color rendition. As referenced above, the Cressi’s Corsica Snorkel is also superior. And the Cressi also boasts a similar buckle strap system.
In the end, comfortability was the deciding factor for us. The Sherwood’s low-profile design allows for a snugger fit than the Cressi, which we felt provided only average comfort.
Editor’s Pick: Mask
If you thought choosing one of three sets was difficult, try picking one out of six masks. Again, each mask offers unique value that puts it ahead of the competition in one way or another. We went back and forth between a few of them trying to single out what we considered the best. Once again, we tried to look at the overall merits. The best mask for one diver is not necessarily the best mask for another, after all.
In the end, we decided to go with the ScubaPro Synergy 2 Trufit Twin Mirrored Lens Mask. The Trufit technology used offered a superior comfort rivaled almost exclusively by the two Mares masks, the i3 Sunrise, and X-VU Liquidskin Sunrise. Mares’ Tri-comfort and Liquidskin technology made it a tough choice, so we had to turn to other factors in narrowing it down from three to one.
All three offered impressive buckle systems allowing for improved micrometric regulation, even with thick gloves on. One wasn’t necessarily better than either of the others.
But where the ScubaPro Synergy 2 Trufit Twin Mirrored Lens Mask stood out for us was in the lenses. It’s included in the model’s name for a reason! The Ultra Clear optical lenses equal the best that the Mares X-VU has to offer, even with the optical upgrade due later this year. What put the Synergy 2 ahead for us was the mirrored lens technology.
With the superior color rendition and glare reduction of the mirrored lenses, it was a clear choice in the end. Pun intended.
Final Words
So, we’ve given you our list of community-based choices for the best scuba gears. If you’re just starting out in following your passion for diving, you now also know the different types of masks available. Hopefully, you’ve also learned which designs are best suited to their respective applications. We’ve also explained how and why a mask fogs, and how to deal with it. And just because our readers mean so much to us, we’ve given you a condensed “how to” guide for using your mask!
Whether you’re a first-timer or a veteran, we hope you’ve learned something. Even if it’s only the new technology and designs coming into play in the best scuba gear 2017.
No review is complete without an editor’s choice. We strive to stay ahead at all times, so we’ve given you two! But at the end of the day, what really matters when buying a mask is how you feel. No two divers will have exactly the same needs and preferences, even if they overlap a lot.
Take what we’ve given, and make it your own. Find the best scuba gear for you, using our reviews as a guide. Happy diving!
